The holy month of Ramadan started early this morning. Even if I wasn’t in the Islamic loop- umm, hellooo, did you read my last post? Obvi I AM in the loop- I would definitely be able to tell that something was up. I walked outside early this morning and was met with an eerie silence. Aden was dead. Getting a bus or even a taxi to work this morning seemed highly improbable and as the minutes inevitably ticked on I started to get desperate- a few teachers and, of course, many students were wickedly late this morning because of the paucity of transportation options. During Ramadan (the holy month of fasting), Islamic countries turn nocturnal- fasting is from sunrise until sunset, ergo things come alive at night. I’ve heard that it is really difficult to fast for Ramadan in non-Islamic countries because the world just carries on the same. Here, as in all Islamic countries there is a total shift to night living. Nothing is open until evening, the streets are dead, the shops are closed, the people are at home. Sleeping. Amideast is now open until Midnight. My Arabic class went from 5pm to starting at 11pm, which is super-de-duper past my bedtime. A few things remain open like normal, hospitals for one. Another are my English classes. It’s going to be hard having to stay up all night for my myriad obligations-which now take place in the middle of the night aka boxing at 2am- yet still be functioning for my morning classes.
So this morning when all seemed lost, a bus driver I know, Amin, happened by. I had only met Amin once previously many months ago but he remembered me, and I, astoundingly, remembered him as well. He took me all the way to Amideast- refusing to pick up any other passenger- I saw two people out on the usually overcrowded, bustling main streets- all the while jabbering excitedly in Arabic. I got a free ride, I had a nice covo and got to practice my Arabic, I made it to class on time- what an excellent start to Ramadan.
Many an hour later as I was leaving work I stuck my finger out to an approaching bus (expertly pointing my finger behind me to indicate the region I wished to head towards) and it was Amin again! He may have been waiting for me because the coincidence of seeing him twice in one day seems too great, but I don’t think so.
Once again he took me all the way home, refused to let me pay, and didn’t pick up another passenger. We discovered that we have many things in common- we are both 23, we both live in Muallah, we both think sahawic is simply delicious, and we are both married. My husband is of course, still away on business though…
In a couple of hours I will go to an iftar at my family’s house. This is the ritualistic breaking of the fast after magrib prayer- and subsequent gorging ourselves with food. It is traditional to eat a date when breaking the fast so I’m going to wander off in a bit and try and find some delicious, nicely packaged dates to give them. People go crazy during iftar. If I had somehow inexplicably still been unaware that Ramadan was coming up, a trip to see the devastated shelves of the super market would have clued me in. Teeming throngs of woman buying jello, custard cream, and sambosa wrappers literally by the shopping cart load is a clear indication that something is going down. They really love their jello here by the way.. All year I keep hearing about delicious, fried, and traditional dishes that only make their appearance during Ramadan- Yemeni cooking is delicious but extremely redundant, I’m pumped to get some delicious variety in my life.
Showing posts with label Islam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Islam. Show all posts
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Two-Minute Islam
A brief summary of Islam, namely the five pillars, just because I've haven't done this yet.
Let me preface this by saying I am not an expert, nor am I actually Muslim. However I have been living in an Islamic country for almost six months and I FEEL like a damn expert though.
Islam has five pillars that are a veritable guideline for daily living- let me give a brief synopsis of them:
The first pillar, or Shadaha, is a seemingly simple mantra - recognizing that there is no God but Allah, and Muhammad is his messenger. End of story. Before the rest of the pillars can hold any personal or religious significance, one must first embrace the Shadaha as sacrosanct.
The four remaining ritualistic pillars are very clear and specific- with particular actions and procedures for each one. The second pillar of Islam is the practice of Salat, or the five daily prayers. Praying five times a day is obligatory for Muslims and has specific times in which they take place. Prayers are said at fajr(dawn) around 3 or four am, Dhuhr(noon), ‘Asr(mid-afternoon), maghrib(sunset) usually about 6:30, and isha’(early night). These prayers can be said alone or in the company of others. Praying in a congregation is apparently very beneficial because it can provide a strong sense of community and of shared faith and equality in Allah’s eyes. I visited the mosque awhile back and witnessed maghrib prayer( I was up high and out of sight of course). I watched as men swarmed into the huge mosque, they all mushed in next to each other. There was a TON of space but every newcomer would worm his way in right next to other people. They were all practically standing on top of each other, it seemed kinda ridiculous. Later when I asked about it, I was told that you pray as you would go into battle; shoulder to shoulder, foot to foot as a solid force- as in this case, a solid force of worship.
Communal prayer helps promote a spiritual union with fellow believers, but individual prayer can be just as important and beneficial, individual prayer is ones alone time with Allah- it helps solidify your relationship with Him.
Islamic prayer is highly ritualistic, nearly every aspect of it is specified. The act of praying itself is very specific- prayers consist of Qur’anic verses stated in Arabic (the language of the revelation of the Qur’an to the Prophet Muhammad). Posture and bodily movements are also highly important- there is a set movement to prayers with specific postures- standing, bowing, sitting, kneeling, and prostrating oneself before Allah. Previous to praying you must also remove your shoes and be certain you are facing the holy city of Mecca. In addition there is a mandatory separation of men and women during prayer and specific washings and ablutions (three times in each spot- elbows, ears, feet, hands, and something else..) that must be done before prayers can commence.
Mosques are built with the main prayer room already facing Mecca. Every office, bank, school, airport, etc. has special prayer rooms and signs pointing the way to the holy city. I remember on the flight here there was a specific channel on the television with the sole purpose of pointing the way toward Mecca, the arrow kept moving and refreshing every time the plane dipped or turned. And even when we were on the beach during the noon and mid-afternoon prayers, the Muhammads quibbled over which way to face, and performed the ritual ablutions with sand. The five daily prayers are so important because through them one maintains a direct, personal, daily link with Allah.
Zakat, the giving of alms is the third pillar of Islam. Zakat is an act of required charity to those less fortunate and also an act of self-purification through the sharing of ones affluence with others. Zakat is calculated on an individual bases- everyone is responsible to uphold the ritual of alms giving themselves. I’m consistently besieged and beseeched by Somali beggars for money. I often give but I find my self growing ever resentful of it for myriad reasons- but let’s save that rant for another day, shall we? But while roaming around, some Muslim people have commented things like, “ya know, they shouldn’t be asking you for money, you have no need to give. They should be asking Muslims for money- we have to give, Allah decrees it. If we haven’t fulfilled our Zakat yet, then we will give. Huh.
The fourth pillar of Islam is the practice of Sawm, or fasting during the month of Ramadan aka RIGHT NOW. The holy month of Ramadan is a highly significant time in the Muslim calendar- much more than merely a time of fasting, the holy month of Ramadan is a period of increased spiritual awareness and devotion to God.
Ramadan takes place on the ninth month of the lunar calendar and throughout this month Muslims show their faith through the denial of food and drink, sexual relations, smoking, and QAT from dawn until dusk. In addition the Ramadan fast is also a time of total spiritual and physical abstinence from impure thoughts, harmful deeds, lust, anger, envy, etc. It is to be a time of physical, mental, and emotional purification. All who are able should fast at this time, with a few specific exceptions- children before the age of puberty, pregnant women, the elderly, travelers, and people ill or infirm are exempt from the fast. The fasting during the month of Ramadan is not supposed to be a burden or merely obligatory. Ramadan is to be a joyous time where can demonstrate their thankfulness and praise of Allah through the physical denial of worldly pleasures, self-sacrifice and total commitment to Him. It is thought that through physical denial, one can learn patience, strength and total reliance on Allah for comfort and peace in daily life.
The fifth and last pillar of Islam is the pilgrimage, or Hajj to Mecca( different than Umra, which can take place at any time of the year) The pilgrimage to Mecca, Saudi Arabia is mandatory for every Muslim both male and female. The only exception is if someone is physically or financially unable to make the journey. Hajj is an extremely unique time- on this occasion Muslims from all across the world meet in one spot in order to worship Allah. During this time all pilgrims regardless of class or social standing wear a special white garment; this is designed to eschew all social classifications and allow everyone to stand equally before God in the ultimate form of devotion. Hajj is observed over a specific number of days and there are certain steps and rituals that must be performed including the circling of the Ka’bah and praying together at Arafat. Completing the pilgrimage is perhaps the hardest of the pillars to accomplish- in terms of physical sacrifice it is certainly the most “costly” but to Muslims it is also the most rewarding. Completely the pilgrimage to Mecca is a life altering experience. The pilgrimage of is the ultimate show of faith and devotion to God. Hajj is a logistical nightmare. And it has certainly become more commercialized over the years with companies devoted to Hajj accommodations, trip planning, etc.. I’ve watched documentaries and heard stories from people who have gone on
Hajj. I’ve heard many accounts of people being trampled or crushed in the teeming throngs of millions and millions of people all trying to perambulate around the Ka’bah or throw stones, or recreate the trek between the mountains. Every year people die from dehydration and exposure and exhaustion. Wild.
Obviously Mecca is a place where only Muslims can go. This place is so revered and holy, that even Caucasian Muslims have to jump through hoops to get permission to go- a friend explained that she had to get a letter from her American Imam, and have official documents professing her faith notarized, and make a special appeal to the government of Saudi Arabia. It’s all very otherworldly to me.
So that's the basics of Islam in a nutshell, well the pillars at least. Obviously it's far, far more complicated than that. This doesn't even begin to cover the beliefs or history of Islam. There are a million rules, and rituals, and sayings... I honestly think it would take years of studying for an outsider to make heads or tails of this religion.
Let me preface this by saying I am not an expert, nor am I actually Muslim. However I have been living in an Islamic country for almost six months and I FEEL like a damn expert though.
Islam has five pillars that are a veritable guideline for daily living- let me give a brief synopsis of them:
The first pillar, or Shadaha, is a seemingly simple mantra - recognizing that there is no God but Allah, and Muhammad is his messenger. End of story. Before the rest of the pillars can hold any personal or religious significance, one must first embrace the Shadaha as sacrosanct.
The four remaining ritualistic pillars are very clear and specific- with particular actions and procedures for each one. The second pillar of Islam is the practice of Salat, or the five daily prayers. Praying five times a day is obligatory for Muslims and has specific times in which they take place. Prayers are said at fajr(dawn) around 3 or four am, Dhuhr(noon), ‘Asr(mid-afternoon), maghrib(sunset) usually about 6:30, and isha’(early night). These prayers can be said alone or in the company of others. Praying in a congregation is apparently very beneficial because it can provide a strong sense of community and of shared faith and equality in Allah’s eyes. I visited the mosque awhile back and witnessed maghrib prayer( I was up high and out of sight of course). I watched as men swarmed into the huge mosque, they all mushed in next to each other. There was a TON of space but every newcomer would worm his way in right next to other people. They were all practically standing on top of each other, it seemed kinda ridiculous. Later when I asked about it, I was told that you pray as you would go into battle; shoulder to shoulder, foot to foot as a solid force- as in this case, a solid force of worship.
Communal prayer helps promote a spiritual union with fellow believers, but individual prayer can be just as important and beneficial, individual prayer is ones alone time with Allah- it helps solidify your relationship with Him.
Islamic prayer is highly ritualistic, nearly every aspect of it is specified. The act of praying itself is very specific- prayers consist of Qur’anic verses stated in Arabic (the language of the revelation of the Qur’an to the Prophet Muhammad). Posture and bodily movements are also highly important- there is a set movement to prayers with specific postures- standing, bowing, sitting, kneeling, and prostrating oneself before Allah. Previous to praying you must also remove your shoes and be certain you are facing the holy city of Mecca. In addition there is a mandatory separation of men and women during prayer and specific washings and ablutions (three times in each spot- elbows, ears, feet, hands, and something else..) that must be done before prayers can commence.
Mosques are built with the main prayer room already facing Mecca. Every office, bank, school, airport, etc. has special prayer rooms and signs pointing the way to the holy city. I remember on the flight here there was a specific channel on the television with the sole purpose of pointing the way toward Mecca, the arrow kept moving and refreshing every time the plane dipped or turned. And even when we were on the beach during the noon and mid-afternoon prayers, the Muhammads quibbled over which way to face, and performed the ritual ablutions with sand. The five daily prayers are so important because through them one maintains a direct, personal, daily link with Allah.
Zakat, the giving of alms is the third pillar of Islam. Zakat is an act of required charity to those less fortunate and also an act of self-purification through the sharing of ones affluence with others. Zakat is calculated on an individual bases- everyone is responsible to uphold the ritual of alms giving themselves. I’m consistently besieged and beseeched by Somali beggars for money. I often give but I find my self growing ever resentful of it for myriad reasons- but let’s save that rant for another day, shall we? But while roaming around, some Muslim people have commented things like, “ya know, they shouldn’t be asking you for money, you have no need to give. They should be asking Muslims for money- we have to give, Allah decrees it. If we haven’t fulfilled our Zakat yet, then we will give. Huh.
The fourth pillar of Islam is the practice of Sawm, or fasting during the month of Ramadan aka RIGHT NOW. The holy month of Ramadan is a highly significant time in the Muslim calendar- much more than merely a time of fasting, the holy month of Ramadan is a period of increased spiritual awareness and devotion to God.
Ramadan takes place on the ninth month of the lunar calendar and throughout this month Muslims show their faith through the denial of food and drink, sexual relations, smoking, and QAT from dawn until dusk. In addition the Ramadan fast is also a time of total spiritual and physical abstinence from impure thoughts, harmful deeds, lust, anger, envy, etc. It is to be a time of physical, mental, and emotional purification. All who are able should fast at this time, with a few specific exceptions- children before the age of puberty, pregnant women, the elderly, travelers, and people ill or infirm are exempt from the fast. The fasting during the month of Ramadan is not supposed to be a burden or merely obligatory. Ramadan is to be a joyous time where can demonstrate their thankfulness and praise of Allah through the physical denial of worldly pleasures, self-sacrifice and total commitment to Him. It is thought that through physical denial, one can learn patience, strength and total reliance on Allah for comfort and peace in daily life.
The fifth and last pillar of Islam is the pilgrimage, or Hajj to Mecca( different than Umra, which can take place at any time of the year) The pilgrimage to Mecca, Saudi Arabia is mandatory for every Muslim both male and female. The only exception is if someone is physically or financially unable to make the journey. Hajj is an extremely unique time- on this occasion Muslims from all across the world meet in one spot in order to worship Allah. During this time all pilgrims regardless of class or social standing wear a special white garment; this is designed to eschew all social classifications and allow everyone to stand equally before God in the ultimate form of devotion. Hajj is observed over a specific number of days and there are certain steps and rituals that must be performed including the circling of the Ka’bah and praying together at Arafat. Completing the pilgrimage is perhaps the hardest of the pillars to accomplish- in terms of physical sacrifice it is certainly the most “costly” but to Muslims it is also the most rewarding. Completely the pilgrimage to Mecca is a life altering experience. The pilgrimage of is the ultimate show of faith and devotion to God. Hajj is a logistical nightmare. And it has certainly become more commercialized over the years with companies devoted to Hajj accommodations, trip planning, etc.. I’ve watched documentaries and heard stories from people who have gone on
Hajj. I’ve heard many accounts of people being trampled or crushed in the teeming throngs of millions and millions of people all trying to perambulate around the Ka’bah or throw stones, or recreate the trek between the mountains. Every year people die from dehydration and exposure and exhaustion. Wild.Obviously Mecca is a place where only Muslims can go. This place is so revered and holy, that even Caucasian Muslims have to jump through hoops to get permission to go- a friend explained that she had to get a letter from her American Imam, and have official documents professing her faith notarized, and make a special appeal to the government of Saudi Arabia. It’s all very otherworldly to me.
So that's the basics of Islam in a nutshell, well the pillars at least. Obviously it's far, far more complicated than that. This doesn't even begin to cover the beliefs or history of Islam. There are a million rules, and rituals, and sayings... I honestly think it would take years of studying for an outsider to make heads or tails of this religion.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
maybe you had to be there
Today I walked in on a conversation between a Muslim woman and a couple non-Muslims. I’m pretty sure they were talking about meaningful and rewarding deaths- something about suffering in death as a means of wiping away your sins before meeting Allah.. I’m not really sure because I breezed in at what was clearly the middle of the convo and only heard “Yeah drowning would be a great death, it would be so wonderful, and fire? Burning to death? Forget about it!
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
All encompassing Arab hospitality
So early last week my friends the Mohammed’s and I went to an Islamic center (different than a mosque, where I am not allowed to go), I meant to go for just a few minutes to check it out but ended up staying almost two hours (and I have subsequently been back several times). Initially upon my arrival I felt a bit uneasy. Although met with exceedingly polite and courteous behavior, I felt that perhaps I shouldn’t have come. Had I brazenly (albeit inadvertently) walked into a private, Muslim-only area where the three-strikes- white, American, and female would prove insurmountable odds?
I will admit that I just don’t look the part of truly-interested-for-scholarly-reasons + I-swear-I’m-not-wasting-your-time. I look YOUNG. I guess I never realized just how young I look until I started teaching adults. I’m constantly getting, “Wow! You’re allowed to teach us even though you’re still a teenager?” or “Oh is your mother a teacher here?” NO! I'M 23 DAMNIT! The consensus seems to be that I look like I’m 17… Not so great when I am trying to personify an authoritative, hell-yes-I-know-what-I’m-talking-about demeanor. But this will be GREAT when I’m an old lady and still look spry!
We soon found ourselves sitting next to the main guy’s desk at the Center- I, of course, feeling exceedingly foolish and uncomfortable. A few pleasantries were passed back and forth in English, with much regret given that women were not allowed to study there. The man then proceeded to ask something in Arabic to a man standing beside me- miraculously I happened to understand several of the words he said and was able to decipher the general meaning- somewhat boldly I went ahead and answered his question. Immediately his eyes light up, I wasn’t some silly girl on a whim after all! To make a long story short we ended up talking for almost two hours about my purpose for being in Yemen, my desires to know more of the Arabic language and the religion of Islam, how Islam is viewed in America and vice versa, how misunderstanding breeds contempt and the biased portrayals seen in the media… it was wonderful. I ended up getting a tour of the center and then book after book was pressed upon me, a veritable wealth of information. Much regret was expressed over the fact that I couldn’t study Arabic at the center but they went out of their way to find me a place where I could.
All of this only further solidified my views of Muslim culture in general and the Yemeni people in particular. Islam is a wonderful, pluralistic religion practiced by kind, generous people. Everywhere I go I am met with unbelievable displays of kindness, hospitality and friendship. Moving here was definitely the best decision I have made in a long, long time.
Anyone want to come visit?!
I will admit that I just don’t look the part of truly-interested-for-scholarly-reasons + I-swear-I’m-not-wasting-your-time. I look YOUNG. I guess I never realized just how young I look until I started teaching adults. I’m constantly getting, “Wow! You’re allowed to teach us even though you’re still a teenager?” or “Oh is your mother a teacher here?” NO! I'M 23 DAMNIT! The consensus seems to be that I look like I’m 17… Not so great when I am trying to personify an authoritative, hell-yes-I-know-what-I’m-talking-about demeanor. But this will be GREAT when I’m an old lady and still look spry!
We soon found ourselves sitting next to the main guy’s desk at the Center- I, of course, feeling exceedingly foolish and uncomfortable. A few pleasantries were passed back and forth in English, with much regret given that women were not allowed to study there. The man then proceeded to ask something in Arabic to a man standing beside me- miraculously I happened to understand several of the words he said and was able to decipher the general meaning- somewhat boldly I went ahead and answered his question. Immediately his eyes light up, I wasn’t some silly girl on a whim after all! To make a long story short we ended up talking for almost two hours about my purpose for being in Yemen, my desires to know more of the Arabic language and the religion of Islam, how Islam is viewed in America and vice versa, how misunderstanding breeds contempt and the biased portrayals seen in the media… it was wonderful. I ended up getting a tour of the center and then book after book was pressed upon me, a veritable wealth of information. Much regret was expressed over the fact that I couldn’t study Arabic at the center but they went out of their way to find me a place where I could.
All of this only further solidified my views of Muslim culture in general and the Yemeni people in particular. Islam is a wonderful, pluralistic religion practiced by kind, generous people. Everywhere I go I am met with unbelievable displays of kindness, hospitality and friendship. Moving here was definitely the best decision I have made in a long, long time.
Anyone want to come visit?!
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